A burning lake, prayer flags and a resident guru
From the time we arrived in Bhutan, our guide, Tek, talked about having us visit the Burning Lake—a very sacred site.
While this remote destination is plenty watery, it is neither burning or a lake—it’s a widening in a river. Nevertheless, it is an important part of Bhutanese legend.
In the later 1400s, a Buddhist saint named Terton Pema Lingpa told villagers of his vision that a guru had hidden sacred treasures in their nearby ‘lake’.
Not surprisingly, the locals weren’t convinced and the local governor was especially suspicious. He assembled a large group of people to watch Pema Lingpa retrieve the treasures.
The governor told Pema Lingpa that if he successfully got a treasure, he would support him. If he failed, he would punish him for disrupting his district.
Pema LIngpa is said to have grabbed a burning butter lamp and proclaimed, If I am genuine, let me bring back the treasure with this lamp still burning. If I am a fraud, let me die in the waters below.
Obviously, he popped up with the goods or he and the lake wouldn’t be famous.
The story goes that after quite some time, Pema Lingpa resurfaced with the still-lit butter lamp, as well as a small box crafted of joined skulls and a small sculpture.
According to tradition, this miraculous occurrence caused all those present to become followers and patrons of Pema Lingpa. The event also gave the lake its name of Mebar Tsho, or the Burning Lake.
The path down to the ‘lake’ is festooned with brilliantly coloured prayer flags, other devotional items and a small altar dedicated to Pema Lingpa.
Pilgrims are still drawn to the site and on auspicious days they will offer butter lamps at the water’s edge. According to Tek, the guru who is currently resident at the Burning Lake is a great character. He’s in his final year of a stint that will last three years, three months and three days.
The guru was coming down to ‘do his job’ as we were leaving and he stopped to speak to Anand, who was our driver for this journey. He was full of gorgeous smiles and hearty hellos, and offered to show Anand the way to enlightenment. Anand graciously declined, explaining that he was Hindu. I wasn’t quick enough to get a photo of them together, but I did get a pic of the guru descending to his ‘workplace’.
Very nice Peggy as it is a very interesting story. Plus I loved the flags. I do not know what a Butter Lamp is but I am sure on one evening with everything lite must look wonderful. I am sorry Peggy I got confused where is this place?
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Hi Jeanette. I love the flags too. The Burning Lake is in Bhutan, which is northeast of India. A butter lamp is a small dish filled with butter, oil or ghee, which is then lit. They’re common in temples and monasteries, and for religious occasions.
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Thank you Peggy for the explanation. I have a “Buddha” here that I received as a gift 50-60 years ago. He sits at the very top of my China Cabinet. Very high up so he can look over all.
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You have a sixth sense when it comes to buddhas. They are supposed to be placed high in a room. Yours must be very content and happy!
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I live vicariously thru your and Poor John’s travels! You make me smile.
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That guru would have made you smile too. He has such a gorgeous face and beautiful smile. A great laugh too.
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What a neat story my friend.
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Thanks Mike.
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I thought it was really nice for you to take a photo of the guru to show us.
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I just wish I’d been quick enough to capture his amazing face. Guess I’ll have to go back before his stint is up. 🙂
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Peggy, I think you actually got a picture for an important part of your story – it looks to me like you captured the “working” end.
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The picture doesn’t show that he was carrying a small briefcase. 🙂 Now that’s dedication.
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Thank you! Well done my friend.
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You are most welcome.
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I wonder Peggy if it was also three hours and three minutes. 🙂 –Curt
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Good question. In fact, I asked about that but apparently minutes aren’t that critical.
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LeggyPeggy- Since Bhutan is so remote and few people/tourists/trekkers go their, I was looking forward to learning about this country via this blog.
I heard that you have to use a “Tourist/Travel Guide” and be escorted throughout the country… how did that go ? How long did you stay in Bhutan? Did you use a car, van, bus, horse (animal of burden).. have a Sherpa ? And I guess taken to specific hotels/hostels for overnight stays and eating. Where there any local food stalls on the way? Please describe the Asian food you had?
Where the people friendly? Ease in which to take photos of them?
Sy
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Trust me Sy, there are many more posts coming on Bhutan. We had poor internet connections in the country so I was forced to hold the posts until we left. So bear with me. Hey, we even saw the king and queen, the queen mother and a royal uncle (he was fishing). Only royalty can fish in Bhutanese waters unless you have special permission. We didn’t. 🙂
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How do you say in Bhutanese, “Sy has Ants In His Pants”….. Ok I will wait and look forward to your posts…. commentary, pictures…. and your guess on ingredients on some of the food/dishes you tried…
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Don’t you worry and I already know what ingredients they use—cheese and chillies and some fiddlehead ferns.
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I never knew about Fiddlehead Ferns and cooking these until last year…. I don’t think it is popular in America. But I did buy some at Whole Foods market here. You have to be careful about cooking these the proper way… To see what they look like, Google “Fiddlehead Ferns Images.”
Ants In Me Pants Sy S.
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Hey Antsy, I’m trying to get something done tonight (my time). Watch for a pic or two of fiddlehead ferns.
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Great devotionals, too. I wonder where the guru will go when his time is up?
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Good point. I imagine he’ll find a new sacred site that needs tending. Bhutan has no shortage of sacred places.
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I really enjoyed the way you told this story. A very interesting tale, Peggy! I am quite fascinated by the history and current situation in Bhutan so look forward to reading more posts as they come. Great photos too! 🙂
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Thanks Jane. I’ll get to work on more posts.
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A wonderful blog, great photography. Happy travelling 🙂
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Thanks so much. I’m checking out your blog now too.
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amazing!
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Thanks.
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i like the places where you’ve been! So, I nominate you for Thr Creative Blogger
award, Please see: https://thehutownerblog.wordpress.com/2015/06/16/creative-blogger-award/ Congratulations!
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Thanks so much for thinking of me. Out of necessity, I have had to make this an award-free blog. As I explained on my ‘A bit about us’ page:
‘Thanks in advance to everyone who nominates me for an award. It is most appreciated, but I will have to keep this blog award-free. We travel so much and in such remote places, I feel lucky when I have enough internet connection to get a blog post done. So thanks, but please understand.’
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it’s ok, no problem! i nominated your blog because i like it….i’ll still like the blog…cheers! :0
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Aw thanks, I’m so pleased you like my blog so much. Most appreciated.
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Great story, I’d love to go to Bhutan some day. Love all the photos of the prayer flags.
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Bhutan is definitely worth seeing. Hope you make it there one day to see the prayer flags all over the country.
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Beautiful
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Thanks.
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This sounds like such an incredible journey! It has always been my dream to see the world up close and personal rather than from the chair in front of the TV. I live vicariously through your photos and words.
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We’ve had some wonderful travels in India and Bhutan with Anand and Deepti. Glad you have come along for ‘the ride’.
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I always love what you write. Its amazing reading such beautiful descriptions of such wonderful places……specially when these places are so close to home…..the pics are very detailed and amazing as well 😀
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Oh my goodness, thanks so much for your praise. Most appreciated.
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You are most welcome 😀
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Amazing travels, Dorthy’s not in Kansas (Iowa, Nebraska) any more. Great photos and descriptions, almost feels like being there.
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Thanks so much. Nebraska is a long, long, long way away for this Dorothy, but I still love Nebraska.
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Beautiful photos, greetings Wolfgang
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Thanks so much. I’m enjoying your blog too.
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I love this look inside a country where so few visit. I’m envious, but also grateful for your photos and words.
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Thanks so very much. Most appreciated.
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Nice blog! Thank you for sharing! Love your posts!
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Thanks, I’ve only just found yours and am loving it too.
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