Just what the times need—an Arc de Triomphe

Approaching the Arc de Triomphe in Paris

After the devastating terrorist attacks in Paris last month, I’ve been trying to figure out how to re-introduce all the wonders of this magnificent city and show people that Paris is still a top tourist destination.

I shouldn’t have agonised because I suddenly realised that the Arc de Triomphe is the perfect place to start.

This impressive monument, located at the end of the city’s famous Champs-Élysées, is a symbol of strength and resolve. Completed in the 1830s, the arch honours those who fought and died in the French Revolution and the Napoleonic wars.

Its full name is Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile (or Triumphal Arch of the Star). Twelve roads converge on this arch, creating a star-shaped intersection. Over the years, it has been a popular gathering point for marches, rallies, protests and ceremonies, especially annual events to honour the Unknown Soldier, who is buried at the base. It’s also a great place for a traffic jam.

Arc de Triomphe intersection of 12 roads. Photo from geocaching.com

I remember my first ‘intimate’ encounter with the Arch. It wasn’t in 1975 when I first saw the Arch, but in 2003 when my dear friend, Maggie, and I travelled around the world together (that’s worth quite a few amusing posts).

Back then, Maggie and I were visiting Paris from Belgium and riding in a car with our first exchange student, Jean-Mi, and his mum, Milou, and sister. Aurélie. Milou was driving.

That woman has nerves of steel. You’d think she’d trained for the event. Milou approached the arch’s vast roundabout with white-knuckled resolve (but it was my knuckles that were white). We did go round more than once and then popped out on the right road to continue our journey. I was so impressed—and relieved.

Just so you know, we were on our way to a small hotel on Rue de Bitche. I think we chose it just so we could say we’d stayed on Bitch Street.

Top of the Arc de Triomphe

Arc de Triomphe battle scene

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

A bit more about the arch
Jean Chalgrin designed the arch in 1806. At 50 metres in height, it was the tallest triumphal arch in the world until a taller one was built in Mexico in 1938.

The exterior is covered in battle scenes, some showing nude French youths taking on bearded Germanic warriors. The names of French victories and generals are inscribed on the walls, and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from World War I lies at the base.

If you’re interested in even more detail, you can find it here.

Rosettes on the ceiling

Inscriptions the Arc de Triomphe

Two little challenges
We found two challenges when we visited the arch this year.

As I said before, the monument is in the centre of a huge roundabout—12 roads feed into it. You can drive round and round the arch, but it’s a little hard to get to the centre when you are on foot.

I’m still not sure how many times we walked around the perimeter, searching for one of the two underground passages that could take us to the centre. At last, we noticed that one intersection had a staircase (and a directional sign) down to the underpass to the monument.

The second challenge was to NOT be tempted by the promotion to join a queue (line) to see the monument.

You can go up to the top if you pay

Once you find your way underground, the advertising is very clever. ‘Join the queue and see the monument,’

Poor John and I wavered. Oh cripes, do you need to pay to see the Arc de Triomphe? That wasn’t the case when Maggie and I were there in 2003.

As it turns out, it’s still not the case. The pay-to-see option is for those who want to visit the top of the arch and look out over the city. But I have to say the promo is very compelling, and we very nearly bought tickets and asked questions later.

So if you get to the underground bit of the arch (and don’t want to go to the top), just keep walking around the circuit until you get to the sign that says to go upstairs here.

Arc de Triomphe sculptures

And a reminder 
Don’t live your life in fear. Get out and do things. Travel and live. Use common sense about where you go (that applies anywhere in the world).

Don’t be afraid of Muslims you see. They aren’t the extremists. They want what you want—enough money to live, jobs, a roof over their heads, food on the table, education for their children and to live peacefully with their neighbours.

It’s true in Paris and true almost everywhere else in the world. Sure there are exceptions, but they are few.