Aleppo’s magnificent citadel suffers in Syria’s civil war

Aleppo citadel entrance at night

See how small the people look crossing the bridge

The citadel in Aleppo, Syria, has copped a battering. The current thugs of Syria (both government and rebels) have made a mess of the place.

I suppose I should be philosophical about it. Parts of this medieval structure were already a mess when I’ve visited in the past. But that was the result of historic crumbling and warfare. This latest devastation is the result of civil war and outright thuggery.

Aleppo’s fortified citadel dominates the city and is thought to be one of the world’s oldest and largest castles still in existence.

I first visited Aleppo in 1977 and then again in the early 1980s.

My memory of my first visit in 1981 always makes me smile. We had Poor John’s parents in tow. I had written a letter to book two rooms in Aleppo’s Grand Hotel.

When we arrived at the reception desk, they claimed to have no knowledge of my letter or our reservation—and no room in the inn either. Bugger.

Entrance to Aleppo citadel

Aleppo citadel interior with tower

So we headed out to find a suitable alternative.

I knew it wasn’t going to have a happy ending and I was right. We ended up flopping at a small, seedy hotel that had a room for five available. Hotel staff were most shocked to learn that we were happy to pay for all five beds and only use four. The reason is a no brainer. We needed to control the whole room.

Good heavens, Betty (Poor John’s mum) would have fainted dead away if a newcomer had joined our room in the middle of the night. And I can’t say that I’d have blamed her. So we took the whole room, swatted the cockroaches and mosquitoes as needed, and used the shared bathroom down the hall.

But I started this post to tell a bit about Aleppo’s citadel, so I’d better get back to the topic at hand.

Looking up to the Aleppo citadel

Looking down from the Aleppo citadel

The citadel has size going for it. It sits on an elliptical mound that is 450 by 325 metres (or 1480 by 1066 feet). The mound is surrounded by a moat that is 22 metres (72 feet) deep and 30 metres (98 feet) wide.

Over the centuries, the citadel has seen a variety of residents including Greeks, Byzantines, Ayyubids and Mamluks. More than 500 years ago, a Venetian traveller said 2000 people lived within the citadel.

Conservationists think most of the current construction is from the Ayyubid period. Most of that work was organised by al Zahir al-Ghazi, who ruled Aleppo between 1193 and 1215. His most impressive addition was the tall bridge-cum-viaduct, which still (I hope) serves as the citadel’s main entrance.

Aleppo citadel—see the fellow on the wall for an idea of size

Aleppo citadel detail

Inside Aleppo citadel

Aleppo citadel with lamp

Below the citadel in 2009, not damaged but construction

Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the citadel has suffered untold damage since the civil war began. News reports say the main gate was shelled in 2012. Last year, it seems a bomb was set off in a tunnel under one of the outer walls. I assume the reference to ‘main gate’ means that wonderful bridge-cum-viaduct.

At this stage, no one is exactly sure how extensive the wreckage is and an accurate assessment is unlikely to be made until the war ends.

So I’m keen to share some pics of how the citadel (and some of it surrounds) looked when I visited in December 2009. The ones that are immediately below are from the throne room (I think).

Also sharing a pic of the hotel where we stayed, as well as a pic of the Aleppo souk (market). I can’t believe I didn’t take more when I had the chance. It’s been damaged too. Especially heartbreaking because I always thought it was one of the most beautiful souks in the world.

I wanted to share a recipe that the waiter gave me for a wonderful appetiser dip that was served in the restaurant where we ate on our first night in Aleppo. You’ll have to wait for that. It’s written on a scrap of paper and tucked into a cookbook I can’t find tonight (almost midnight).

But if you’re needing a dip sometime soon, check out this Turkish one on my cooking blog.

Aleppo hotel common area

Aleppo souk ceiling with Poor John