Exploring Australia’s Arnhem Land and being offline
Men dancing the welcome to country story
Poor John and I are on a new adventure. This time it’s a 13-day overland trip in Australia’s remote Arnhem Land. Located in the northeastern corner of the Northern Territory, Arnhem Land covers about 97,000 square kilometres (37,000 square miles) and has an population of about 16,000, of which 12,000 are Aboriginal and Torres Strait Island people.
We started out yesterday in East Arnhem Land in Nhulunbuy, the region’s service hub, which was settled in the early 1970s as a mining town for bauxite.
Women and children dancing the welcome to country story
The Yolŋu culture in East Arnhem Land is possibly one of the oldest living cultures on Earth; humans are known to have lived in the region for about 60,000 years. This is also where the oldest-known stone axe of its kind was found. Scholars think it is 35,500 years old.
Today we were welcomed to country with a special ceremony at Wirrwawuy Beach. Then on to the Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Art Centre in Yirrkala. All the pictures here are from the welcome to country ceremony.
Playing the clap sticks
There’s so much more to share but it will all have to wait until later.
We leave Nhulunbuy early tomorrow morning and are likely to be out of internet range for the next 10-12 days. Have fun without me. I’ll be too busy being a tourist, so won’t have access to or a chance to visit other blogs or reply to comments.
P.S. Plus, I promise to come back and tell more about Antarctica and our trip across the South Atlantic. I’ve been sidetracked these last few months.
Didgeridoo player and male dancers
Where to next? 
It must be one of the joys of living in such a vast country as Australia that you can quite literally ‘explore’ parts of your own country. Have a great time, Peggy!
Best wishes, Pete.
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Thanks Pete. Breakfast first, then we’re on the road.
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Have a fantastic time
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Thanks so much. We’re off after breakfast.
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How fantastic! Looking forward to reading more about your visit. Cheers.
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Thanks, I look forward to sharing.
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Dear Peggy
We are looking forward to your posts when you are back.
Have a safe and great trip
The Fab Four of Cley
🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
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Thanks so much. About to have breakfast and then we’re off.
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Time to explore the home country
At least most people speak the same language
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Yesterday I learned that people up this way sometimes speak up to six languages.
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I have come to the conclusion, most people are just speaking two languages over the past year, English and rubbish, sign of the times I guess
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What an amazing adventure you are on Peggy! Happy travels.
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Thanks for the good wishes. On the road after breakfast.
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Bon voyage!
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Please enjoy the trip. The photos are great! I felt as though I was there as well. The water is beautiful, and the people are, too. 💙🙏🏽
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Everyone is so welcoming. The water is beautiful and full of crocodiles.
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Ooh, no thank you to the crocodiles! Nope. Nope.
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Ditto
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It will be interesting to see the Aboriginal lands.
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It will be fascinating. Most areas require permits to enter so we are very lucky.
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So great to see your blog..
Hello to poor John too!
Would love to chat with you when you get home. I definitely want to come to Australia sometime soon..
Take care!
S
Sent from my iPhone
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We’re expecting you any time.
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Wow.. Enjoy your adventure x
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Thanks. We excited to get underway.
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It is good to “hear” from you again, and I look forward to reading your future posts when you have Internet access again.
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Thanks, internet seems many days away. We’ll see.
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A new adventure? Huzzah! I can’t wait to see all the photos you take–you capture such beautiful moments!
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We’re home now and back to a connection. Had a wonderful trip. Stay tuned.
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Yay! Glad you both are safe and sound xxxxxxxxxxx
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Thanks so much.
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Peggy, what a wonderful adventure for you and “Poor John”! Arnhem Land sounds extraordinary — vast, remote, and rich with history and culture. I admire the way you take your readers along with you, step by step, so we can glimpse these remarkable places through your eyes. Wishing you both a safe and joy-filled journey!
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Thanks so much. I’m getting some posts organised now that we are back to a connection.
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Welcome home!!!! I’ll be looking forward to seeing the places you take us to next. Your posts always feel like a window into your travels and discoveries. Sending hugs!
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Thanks so much. We suddenly have three houseguests arriving over the next two weeks, so I might be a bit distracted.
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I’ve been to Australia but never to Arnhem land. That seems like a great adventure and the dancing looks amazing. The outfits are so colroful. It is fascinating that humans are known to have lived there 60,000 years.
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Arnhem Land is a real eye-opener to how Australia was many years ago. I look forward to sharing some sights.
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Thank you. I am looking forward to seeing and reading it
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The welcome to country ceremony must have been so moving to witness. Can’t wait to hear more once you’re back online, enjoy being immersed in it all!
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We’ve had a wonderful time and I look forward to sharing the highlights.
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That’s great to hear! Can’t wait to see your stories and highlights when you’re back.
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Getting organised—slowly.
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How amazing to have a welcome story and people dance for you. That’s so welcoming and friendly. I’m excited for your Antarctica expedition, leggypeggy
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We’re home now and I’m excited to share it all.
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That sounds exciting, leggypeggy
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Stay tuned for posts on both.
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A tantalising glimpse….
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I look forward to sharing more.
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Most fascinating
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All so fascinating. I look forward to sharing more.
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Dear Peggy and John
Have a great time, a very long time since I was there. Still cold here, we did have one fine day yesterday, enjoy the Territory weather before the Wet Season hits.
Kristine
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Thanks Kristine, it was an amazing trip and plenty warm.
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Fascinating imagers. I wonder if the Yolŋu will be here in another 60,000 years? I hope so.
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I hope so too. They’re certainly suited to carrying on for years to come.
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What an amazing place to adventure!
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Sorry about the delay in replying. Life has been in the way. The trip was amazing. Posting more about it soon.
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This is fascinating. 60,000 yo culture! Right up my interest alley. The mud on them–is that to ward off insects?
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It’s all so fascinating. I think the mud is more decorative than bug repellant.
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Wonderful photos as usual Peggy. I can’t wait for the further additions.
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Trying to get organised.
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Engaging
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It was a fascinating adventure. Now to tell more about it.
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It was great to hear about your Arnhem Land adventure, Peggy, and I’m looking forward to hearing all about your many adventures.
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Thanks so much. Lots to tell about Arnhem Land.
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I had the pleasure of several wks of birding in that corner of Australia. Went to Kakadu and saw rock art at Nourlangie. Yellow Water, etc. I’m sure your time in Arnhem Land was spectacular. How thrilling.
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It was. I just need life to calm down so I can write about the trip.
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What an amazing experience! 🌏🎶 Visiting Arnhem Land and getting to know the rich Aboriginal culture sounds unforgettable. 🪶✨
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It really was a fabulous experience.
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Late to comment – but: I hope you enjoyed the trip!!
Linda xx
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Never too late to comment. We had an amazing trip.
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I’ve been all over Australia… but not there… it’s on my bucket list! Xx
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Well worth the effort and expense.
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Hello Side Tracked LeggyPeggy,
Nice that you can travel around Australia (and not to far off lands this time), but to remote Arnhem Land and decedents of some of the oldest people on earth!
I am remiss in not going to your blog for quite a while and it is now December and almost Christmas time once again, 2025. If I do not show up, have a Happy Christmas!
Side Tracked #2 Me, Sy S.
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