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30 October 2013 / leggypeggy

Delhi dishes up my favourites—a savoury breakfast and a memorable view

aloo zeera and parntha

Aloo zeera and paratha

We landed in India late last night.

It was well after midnight by the time we went through immigration, collected our luggage, had a not-so-hair-raising taxi ride to the hotel, and completed the lengthy rigamarole of checking-in.

Your breakfast will be available 7–10am, said the fellow at reception.

crispy gobhi

Crispy gobhi

Banana truffles

Banana truffles

Next morning, Poor John was there as the doors opened—this man needs his morning coffee—and I meandered along about 50 minutes later. See the watch pic I took as evidence.

I was wondering whether we’d be getting an English or an Indian version of brekkie—hoping for the latter. In the end, there was a choice.

I skipped the toast, cereal and porridge, and went straight for the aloo zeera (herbed and spicy potatoes), paratha (flat bread), crispy gobhi (battered cauliflower), cheese stuffed tomatoes (no pic) and some other savoury treats.

The dishes were excellent. The view from the rooftop didn’t really surprise me, but it might surprise you.

We’re in Jabalpur today and breakfast was an English version. We’ve let them know that Indian fare will be just the thing for tomorrow. It’s a vegetarian-only hotel. If last night’s quick and simple meal—spicy paneer (a kind of cottage cheese), spicy stuffed baked potato wedges (I’ve already asked for the recipe) and a selection of pickles—is any indication, we will eat very, very well.

The price was right too. The total dinner bill, including service fee and tip, was just over $14. Guess what? Part of that was two large beers. There was a note tucked in with our bill. It said something along the lines of, ‘We don’t sell beer here, so we had to send someone out for those. Please add 300 rupees to your account.’ Earlier in the day, in the New Delhi airport, we paid 270 rupees for one very small beer.

Delhi rooftop

View across the road


Leave a Comment
  1. Lisa / Oct 30 2013 4:21 pm

    Those potatoes look great!


    • leggypeggy / Oct 30 2013 10:45 pm

      They were delicious and just the sort of thing I love for breakfast.


  2. lmo58 / Oct 30 2013 4:49 pm

    That sounds very yummy indeed Peggy. I’m already looking forward to tasting the aloo zeera, pamta and gobhi so make sure you get those recipes! I’m sure you’ll come back with hundreds. It’s making me hungry just reading about it.


    • leggypeggy / Oct 30 2013 10:46 pm

      I am definitely on a recipe mission. Hope to collect lots.


  3. janandrussroundoz / Oct 30 2013 6:15 pm

    I’d be right beside you with my face planted in the Indian breakfast. Time enough for western style when we’re at home!


  4. Rhonda / Oct 30 2013 7:22 pm

    Oh, yum! It all sounds absolutely delicious. I’m jealous. Your objective is achieved! 🙂


    • leggypeggy / Oct 30 2013 10:47 pm

      It was all excellent. This is going to be a very enjoyable five weeks.


  5. Derrick / Oct 30 2013 7:34 pm

    Look at the houses opposite the hotel, they are all squatters there, been there for many years, I think they are quite amazing the way they have been built among the rocks and boulders
    There are more if you come out and turn left, about half a K down the road, the funy thing is, they are pretty ramshackle, but have a bright shiny lock on the door
    There is a market just down the road on the right as well, lots of street foods, fruit stalls as well
    Its Sitafal season, give em a try (custard apples) they are nice, just mind the pips
    Yup I tucked in some pretty strange breakfasts while I was staying here, give the manager my regards, he was really helpfull for me
    I wonder if you will be there for any weddings, birthdays ? they love you taking photos of them, and you will get invited, I know I did, lots of times
    Yes the beeer is prety cheap and the hotel will do its best to make you welcome
    Just remember what I said about tipping 🙂


    • leggypeggy / Oct 30 2013 10:51 pm

      There are lots of squatters across the road in Jabalpur. The pic above is from Delhi though. We headed right out of the hotel today and made it to the Jain temple. Also visited the Sadar Markets.

      There are two parties in the hotel tonight (225 guests) and the band is just arriving. I expect it will be a long night. 🙂

      Remind me of the tipping details. I mostly remember, but not completely. We have been tipping generously.


      • Derrick / Oct 30 2013 11:12 pm

        HAH, I bet you are everyones best mate now then, nothing over 10 rupees, or they get the idea we are all rich tourists

        The Jain temple is pretty good, I thought,

        If you get to the waterfall, there are lots of carvings to buy, if you make a ‘donation’ to the blind man there, keep an eye on the guide, I gave him a few rupees, and the guide pinched it from him, which I wasnt happy about, they have all these coloured pigments as well, I never knew what they did with that though

        The carvings are pretty good, but I never bought any (try to take a photo of the sellers, they are very shy, they either turn their head or cover up)

        There is a cable car at the waterfall, its not really worth doing, but is cheap, there are some good snacks to be bought there as well

        most of the time I walked every where, except on the tours that arranged for me, I hope you have better luck than I did, my driver and guide never spoke any English, but the kids do and love to practice on you

        Try and eat outside of the hotel, there are some good places to eat, eating in India is cheap

        As for the parties, they dont finish that late, usually about 11-12 pm, they have to tidy up for the morning, so its not going to be that bad

        I know if you get there before everyone arrives, you meet the people who are having the party, just ask if you can take photos, they will insist you come along, just ask if you can take photos of some of the females, they can be very shy, the kids dont care as long as you show them their pictures

        That have a sort of buffet, and they really want to feed you up there, probably eat lots of stuff you have no idea what it is, but everything is going to be veggie anyway

        Just remember to wash your hands, dont touch your face and make sure anything you eat is hot, there wont be any upset stomachs

        Try not to eat salads, unless its in a clean restaurant, check out some of the kitchens, you may well be surprised


  6. Derrick / Oct 30 2013 7:43 pm

    oops that should be turn RIGHT out of the hotel (dont want you getting too lost)

    The market is on the right, just follow the crowd:-)

    If you look to the left of the hotel there is another sort of village, I had a wander round there, I had a whole gaggle of kids following be around, as what an uproar when I took their photos, they just loved having their pictures taken and seeing them

    If you have the time ask them to give you a tour of the place, they have a temple at the top of a hill and a waterfall (they didnt like you taking photos of the temple, but they did relent when I asked them), the ceiling is quite something


    • leggypeggy / Oct 30 2013 10:52 pm

      We did turn right. Thanks for the other tips. We have all day tomorrow to explore.


  7. Sy S. / Oct 30 2013 11:39 pm

    Good Day Peggy and Pour John,

    I stayed at a hotel in Old Deli, multi-level and an interior courtyard. The monkeys would get glass soda bottles and drop them off the balconies. Also in winter it was challenging to take cold showers (no hot water). Walking to New Deli there is the Red Fort (If I recall) and monkeys out and about. Also, the interesting small green parrots flying around in flocks…

    Finally, that was a real nice breakfast and with spicy potatoes… beer drinking for breakfast? Hummm! And yes collect some good India recipes and photos to show us all. Oh, try and get a few photos of the Chai?Tea makers, streaming the tea from a flask and into a glass.


    • leggypeggy / Oct 31 2013 9:50 pm

      I love hearing the stories of your past travels. You remember well too—there is a Red Fort in Delhi. We’ll visit it when we return there in December.

      Am trying to do my best with recipes. Have already had lots of good food, but the beer was for dinner, not breakfast. 🙂


  8. turkeytonorway / Oct 31 2013 3:04 pm

    Often when we’d order beer at a cafe in Burma we’d see a boy sent running off to fetch said beer from the corner store. And then the cafe would charge us about the same as the corner store, maybe a dollar or two for a large bottle.
    I’m jealous of that breakfast. Although I made Monthi noodles again for breakfast today.


    • leggypeggy / Oct 31 2013 9:53 pm

      The thought of Monthi noodles makes me hugely jealous too. Yesterday we had to buy beers from a caged shop. I got a pic that I will post.


  9. norman r scott / Nov 1 2013 1:49 pm

    hi had not realised you had gone. Well I will have an overnight in Mumbai on my 2014 cruise. Have been there many times but looking forward to the REAL indian food and all the side dishes they give you normanxx


    • leggypeggy / Nov 16 2013 4:06 am

      Hey Norman, sorry to take so long to reply, but our internet connections have been patchy at best. We are enjoying the food here and eating way too much. I really must show more restraint.


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