Hill of crosses honours fallen rebels
If you’ve read my most recent post, you’ll know I was knocked over in Brussels the other day by a teenager trying to escaped from the police. I’m still very sore and bruised, but the muscles and joints are slowly improving. Nothing seems to be broken, and I’m hoping that I’m good to go tomorrow on our week-long bicycling trip in northwestern France.
But you wonderful people have been amazing. I’ve been gobsmacked by all the kind messages that I’ve received on that blog post (and on Facebook too). I think you’ve all helped (willed) me to heal.
So as a thank you and before I set out on the French cycling tracks (with probably no connection), I thought I’d share a hill of crosses (and blessings) with you.

Entering the Hill of Crosses
It’s a fantastic and uplifting story.
Back in 1831, in Lithuania, there was an uprising against the Russian tsar. The uprising was put down. Sadly, the families of the fallen rebels ended up with no bodies to bury. So they started to leave crosses on a special hill (perhaps the highest hill in all of Lithuania).
I have to admit that the hill isn’t very high. We scanned the horizon and saw nothing. And then drove around aimlessly even though it was ‘plugged into’ our car’s GPS. If you ever happen to be searching for it, try keying in ‘kryziu kalnas’ instead of ‘hill of crosses’. That was what finally worked for us, and we found that reference on a local map.

Crosses being forgotten
But back to the hill.
This place is amazing. It’s impossible to know how many crosses are here today, but estimates assume there are more than 200,000. I suspect there should/could be many more. I read that when the crosses started to become a symbol of resistance to the communist regime, the KGB had the hill bulldozed twice.
As you enter the site, there is a long list of rules and regulations about what crosses can be left. They can be made of wood, metal or many other substances. They shouldn’t be more than 3 metres tall.
We saw hundreds of small crosses draped over larger crosses and assumed they were added, not on a whim, but as a convenient place to hang a cross.
There are crosses to commemorate the young (so touching) and the old, and there are crosses from all over the world. Poor John spotted one from Nebraska, my home state.
But there are more than crosses. Statues of the Virgin Mary, carvings of Lithuanian patriots, and thousands of tiny effigies and rosaries have been brought here by Catholic pilgrims.

Loads of crosses in one place
Pope John Paul II visited the hill in 1993 and declared it a place for hope, peace, love and sacrifice. I really appreciate those thoughts. In 2000, a Franciscan hermitage was opened nearby.
Important tip: If you plan to visit and don’t need to go to the toilet or buy a cross, don’t pull into the carpark. Park on the verge outside and enjoy your time strolling through the crosses.
P.S.: Poor John and I are heading out tomorrow on a week-long bicycling trip around Brittany. I have no idea whether there will be internet connections. So don’t worry if you don’t hear from us for a week or more. If it goes beyond that—worry and send reinforcements!
I always love the back story behind every site! Thank you, and get well soon! 🙂
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Thanks so much. I liked the back stories too.
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Enjoy your cycling trip!
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I hope to. 🙂
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What a touching place! I have been to a similar site in Poland – Grabarka, yet the reasons for having so many crosses there was quite different. Enjoyed the photos! Have a great trip!
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Thanks so much.
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Hope you are feeling better . We need you to keep on your travels you know x
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I’m hoping the cycling goes well. Don’t plan on falling off the bike.
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Yes, I’ve seen the place before, though only on TV… I hope the cycling trip goes well — though I well recall the title of a rather mournful French song which is a comment on the common weather in Brittany: “Il pleut sur Nantes…” (It’s raining in Nantes…)
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It was raining in Brussels so maybe not in Nantes. 🙂
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Have fun, feel better and yes I would send reinforcements…myself of course. Love to you,
Sent from my iPad
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Thanks. I’ll be on the lookout for you.
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One of the most touching photos essays I’ve read seen. To be vigilant in honoring the fallen, to stand against tyranny, and to be present for the living and the souls of the dead – what an amazing memorial.
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Shari,
You echo my impression and said it more eloquently than i could so I have no words to add.
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It is a remarkable place, and so good that it is being appreciated by many.
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All the best with your recovery and the rest of the trip Peggy.
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Thanks Frank. I feel crazy doing this bike ride, but it’s been booked for months.
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Bear up and keep peddling!!
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Love the Mother and Child with all the draped crosses and rosaries…
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Yes, that one is especially touching.
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Wow that’s amazing, what a touching story and all those crosses! That statue with all the crosses on is quite astounding. And to think it’s been bulldozed twice and resurrected. Quite a site to see.
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There are many statues with hundreds of crosses. It’s an overwhelming sight.
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It truly is!!
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We have a relative who cycles everywhere he goes. He gets to experience the countryside so much more than we do travelling by car. I’ll be interested to hear how you enjoy the experience, but do take it easy, and enjoy – I hope the weather gods are kind to you.
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Poor John cycles everywhere. Me, not so much. Hoping for good weather and will be looking after my arm.
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I missed out your post on the fact that you were hurt. It is quite upsetting, so hope you are feeling better now. Also, that is quite a story behind the hill of crosses.
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I’m improving and hoping the bike ride goes well. The hill of crosses is extraordinary.
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All the best, I am sure the bike ride will take away any cares at all 🙂
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Glad to hear you are on the mend. Will you have a GPS when cycling?
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We’ll have maps but no GPS. We’re told it’s quite easy riding. I sure hope so in my diminished capacity.
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This place looks fascinating (and as good as a cemeteries which I find most interesting). Take care on the cycling trip and don’t forget to watch out for foreign bodies heading in your direction (at great speed).
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The hill is an extraordinary place. Very sobering and touching.
PS. I plan on taking it very easy.
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I’m glad to hear you’re up for a long bike ride. Enjoy and post pix later! 😃
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Don’t know whether I’m up for the ride, but It’s a flexible plan so I should be able to manage.
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I’m glad to hear nothing’s broken, and I hope that the bruises and soreness ease up soon and that you’re able to go on that bike ride. Just take it easy! This is quite a spectacular place, almost haunting if I’m honest, but truly fascinating. x
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It was an extraordinary place to visit. Very moving and, yes, haunting. I’m still sore and hoping the bike ride isn’t too strenuous.
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You’re going cycling now???
Well, have fun but do try to keep off the Castlemaine XXXX before you push off from the kerb.
Glad to hear you’re on the mend 🙂
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Want the truth? Poor John is a slave driver. He paid for this months ago, so we’re going.
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Look! Do you actually WANT Poor John to hire another young ‘hit-runner’ to send you a-sprawlin’?
Tsk 😦
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Are you applying for the job?
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Hi Peggy, Of great importance: are you going to be using electric bikes or just normal ones? I hope electric. I’m expecting photos of you on your bike srrounded by a sea of red flags. Peggy alert! Peggy alert! The Hill of Crosses is very poignant and touching. It just goes to show how determined people of good heart can successfully challenge even the most ruthless regimes. Take care and please don’t fall off your bike.
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We’re considering an electric bike for me, and I promise to try not to fall off any bike. The crosses are amazing.
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I think if I visited this place, I would not be the same afterwards. Just the pictures alone moved me. Thank you Peggy for the wonderful pictures and have a fun and safe cycling trip next week. 🙂
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Thanks Terry. It is a very moving display and set in the middle of nowhere.
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What a beautiful place. Have a great trip in France and stay safe
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Thanks so much. In St Briec now, heading to Gouarac.
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Beautiful pictures. This looks like such a cool place. Glad you are starting to feel better and hope you enjoy Brittany.
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Thanks so much. We have arrived in Brittany and start cycling tomorrow. The countryside looks so green and welcoming.
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A very unusual site to visit, Peggy, but no less rewarding than many better known ones. Most interesting. Enjoy Brittany, one of my favourite places. I recommend a diversion to Fort La Latte, and not to miss the local pancakes in Quimper..
Best wishes, Pete.
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We’re in the campground in Gouarec tonight and heading out on the bikes tomorrow. Quimper isn’t on the route, but our itinerary highlights plenty of creperies.
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Yum Yum!
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Good to learn you are quickly mending, no doubt your ride through Brittany will bring many terrific entries for you!
Thank you for this “Hill of Crosses”, impressive!
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Mending slowly and glad the first day of bike riding is only 15 kilometres.
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I love this testimony to human integrity, it rises like a phoenix from the ash of political abuse, hope.
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Such a beautiful comment. Thanks.
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I was wondering if you’d make it here. We didn’t, as we traveled by bus. Much more extensive than I thought. Great reportage!
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Thanks. It’s huge. Covers the hill and extends way beyond.
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What an incredible sight. I would have spent several hours there trying to take each cross in and imagining the story it tells.
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I know what you mean. But to take in every cross would probably take months—there are about 200,000. 🙂 That said, many are plain crosses, with no indication of the story behind them, while others a very detailed.
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I enjoy the information you share on your posts because they are places that I am interested and different from what tourists usually go to period have a great ride let me know how you like the electric bike.
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Thanks so much. We get to the out-of-the-way places because we usually travel by road and that allows us to explore. Glad you appreciate my choices to post here. Every now and then I sneak in something like the Eiffel Tower that everyone has seen, at least in photos.
P.S. Having the test ride today—on the ordinary bike—of 15 kilometres. Hoping I can manage okay.
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Absolutely amazing. More amazing? Every one of those crosses has a story wrapped in sadness and spiced with hope.
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Such a beautiful comment, Phil. We’ll never know the heartbreak attached to each of those crosses.
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I often feel like such places help one listen to the Spirit, and sense the divine holding our hands. Lovely post, my friend. Glad you’re feeling okay!
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I think it’s especially wonderful that people from all over the world can come here and honour their fallen loved ones. No wonder it has survived and grown for almost two centuries.
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Whenever I pass one such places I have this feeling that the air is filled with voices trying to tell you something. Love the post and the pictures inspired many many stories in my heart. Thank you so much for this one..
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You are so very welcome. I’m sure the air there is filled with voices of all ages, genders and nationalities.
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I’m glad that you’re recovering and hope that your two-wheeled trip has much less excitement than your Brussels trip. Those photos of the crosses are so touching and humbling.
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Thanks. I’m mending slowly. I agree, the crosses are amazing.
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A fantastic and unusual site, Peggy. You find the most unique places to visit. Thank you for sharing the sad story behind the crosses. I can well understand how they all started with those bereaved families. Some of the crosses are so beautifully crafted.
Only two days after the ‘collision’ and I can only imagine how battered and bruised you were feeling when you wrote this.
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Thanks Millie, Still feeling battered and bruised. But still happy we did all our travels.
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. I intend it’s especially wonderful that people from all over the domain can amount here and honour their fallen loved ones.
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I agree completely. It is a wonderful, peaceful and welcoming place.
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Incredible story. Thankyou
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Thanks so much for sharing it with others.
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