Ghana national park is home to almost 500 species

Elephants in 2009

Elephant 2019

Elephants gather at the edge of a main watering hole, 2019
Africa is famous for its wildlife, especially the big five—lions, elephants, leopards, cape buffaloes and rhinos. But the big five are most common in the south of the continent. We saw all of them there when we travelled overland through Africa back in 2009.
This year we travelled up north, in West Africa only. It’s that bit of Africa that bulges out on the left side. There aren’t quite so many animals up there, but there are more than enough to satisfy wildlife lovers.

Kob antelope (the West-African subspecies Buffon’s Kob) 2009
In 2009 and again this year, we visited Mole National Park, Ghana’s largest wildlife refuge. Mole (pronounced Mo-lay) is home to 93 species of mammal, including elephants, hippos, buffalos and warthogs. It’s an important preserve for African antelopes, such as kobs, waterbucks, bushbucks, oribis, roans, hartebeests and two kinds of duiker.
The park is also popular with primates. There are black-and-white colobus monkeys, green vervets, patas monkeys and olive baboons (also called Anubis baboons).
On both visits, we saw plenty of baboons and made a point of steering clear of them. They are aggressive, hungry and thieves. While the park has motel-type accommodation and a restaurant, we chose to camp. That meant we shared the area with hungry, opportunistic baboons. You can’t leave food or even a tube of toothpaste in your tent because they’ll break in and take it.
Back in 2009, a baboon came in through the skylight of the van we were riding in. He was after a chocolate bar one of our companions was holding. The driver beat him off with a club that he carries for just that purpose.

Baboons in the campground waiting to steal something (2019)

A field of baboons, 2009
Beyond mammals, Mole has 33 species of reptiles and 334 species of birds. Sadly my telephoto lens conked out early in the trip, so the birds in my pictures are the size of a flea.
You’d think seeing all the wildlife and landscapes would be enough, but there were two unexpected events at Mole.

Gary being interviewed by Ghana TV. Elephants in the water in the background (2019)
First, a TV crew turned up at the park (mostly because of the second unexpected event). Gary, who we have been lucky enough to travel with repeatedly in Africa, India, and London to Sydney, was interviewed about his experiences in Ghana. Turns out he was interviewed for TV on a previous visit to the country. He must be a media magnet.
Second was meeting the 2018 Miss Ghana Tourism Ambassador and her two princesses. Apparently these three women are travelling the country to promote the most popular destinations. Elorm Ntemm is the ambassador. The two princesses are Maud Kunorvi (1st) and Ama Owusuaa (2nd).
The 2019 Miss Ghana Tourism Ambassador will be crowned in August.

Elorm Ntemm (centre), 2018 Miss Ghana Ambassador, and princesses, Maud Kunorvi (left) and Ama Owusuaa (right)
A bit more about Mole
Mole dates back to 1958. That was when land was set aside for a wildlife refuge. In 1971, the small human population was relocated from the area, and the land was designated as a national park.
The park is poorly funded to prevent poaching, but professional and armed rangers guard the animals.
The Mole and Lovi rivers flow through the park during and after the rainy season. The park gets about 1000ml (40 inches) of rain a year between April and mid-October.

An armed ranger on duty in Mole, 2009

The park in 2009
About the pics here
This post includes pics from 2009 and 2019. Ten years ago, we visited in the month of May. That was after the rainy season had begun, although I don’t remember it raining while we were there. This year, we visited in March, at the very end of the dry season. You can probably immediately figure out what year a pic was taken, but I have added dates for your convenience.

Ants on the march, 2009

Elephants enjoying a bath, 2009
Interesting seeing the landscape and animals in different seasons. You were very brave camping!
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I hadn’t remembered that the landscapes were quite so different. But camping is fine if you can avoid the baboons.
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I love the antelopes!!!! And the elephants too. Is that antelope a Leechwe? Looks a bit like an impala but they don’t have dark markings on their legs like that, I think. ??
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I’ve been puzzling over that antelope. Maybe someone will know for sure.
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It is so good to see animals free. I hate seeing anything in a cage.
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We’ve really cherished our chances to see critters in the wild.
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Oh wow, Thijs, thanks so much for identifying the monkey and confirming the antelopes. Most appreciated.
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Hi Peggy,
Nice post!
The first picture of antelope is indeed a Kob, in this case the West-African subspecies Buffon’s Kob.
The smaller one with the dots and stripes is a Bushbuck. The ones next to that are also Kob.
The monkey with young is a Patas Monkey.
Cheers, Thijs
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This took me back to a visit to Kenya, in 1983. There is nothing quite so wonderful as seeing so many animals of the same species wandering in large groups, free in the wild.
Best wishes, Pete.
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Great to know you’ve also had the chance to go ‘on safari’.
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LeggyPeggy – What travels you have done – then and now, fun to go along with you! Thanks for sharing them – Susan
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Really appreciate you coming along with me.
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Peggy, how wonderful to see all these animals in their natural habitat. Nothing can beat that. Very brave to stay overnight in a tent with the cheeky baboons trying to steal from you. But also are there other dangers lurking around? I am not sure I could sleep soundly with wild animals so close.
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Except for baboons, there’s not much that wants to go after you, your belongings and your food. Elephants and hippos won’t trample a tent. The big cats hunt at night, but usually wouldn’t break into a tent. That said, they might catch you outside on a midnight pee. Some campgrounds have the kitchen in a cage and/or overnight guards.
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I would be just a little snack for a big lion. I would love to tour Africa with a motorhome /RV, like I am doing in Europe now 🙂
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The main thing about travelling by road in Africa is that you need to have a good mechanic on hand.
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Olá
Muito bom, ótimo
Um abraço
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Thanks so much for stopping by and for commenting. A big hug back to you.
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So lovely to see elephants in the wild. I met some aggressive little monkeys in Malaysia but adorable Howlers in Belize but would still like to see Baboons. How wonderful that you were able to documents trips 10 years apart.
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Going back through the old pics (before I started the blog) was a real eye-opener. Such different landscapes depending on the season.
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Lots of wonderful shots, except the ant march, which makes me itchy just looking at them, and I love seeing elephants wading & swimming, they seem to enjoy it as much as we do.
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The good thing about ant trails is that you can just step over them. Your comment about the elephants reminded me of my mother when she was heavily pregnant with twins. She, my sister and I spent every day in the water at the community pool. It was the only place mum got any relief.
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One of the elephants in the first picture looks tuskless. I hear it’s becoming more common because of the poaching. Is that something you’ve seen?
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I’ve enlarged two pics of that elephant and can’t see any tusks. The angle of the head is such that it might have one tusk. I doubt that the tusk/s were removed back in 2009. But these days elephant tusks and rhino horns get all sorts of treatments to keep them from being poached.
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Thanks for checking. It’s one of those things I have read about and it’s cool to see a picture even if turns out not be exactly what I was reading about.
The tusklessness is also happening naturally. It used to be rare, normally, tusklessness would occur only in about 2 to 4 percent of female African elephants, but they are not being poached so they are becoming more common. Natural selection at work.
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Excellent observation about natural selection at work.
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Superb comparative park tour, Peggy. Looks like their efforts are an ongoing success.
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Thanks Brian, was glad I could easily access the pics from 10 years ago.
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Such a wonderful series of images, although its a shame your telephoto lens ‘conked out’. I imagine the primates are probably so used to tourists/humans, they don’t scare away easily.
I don’t know about the camping bit though. I have visions of retiring to my ‘tent’, waking up and finding a baboon rummaging through my belongings next to me.
(the vision is so clear, because I was awoken in my tent on my 1976 9 week camping tour of central Europe to find an intruder opening the tent flap in the camping ground near Amsterdam – don’t remember exactly where we camped, just the fright I got at the time).
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Oh my gosh, that would have scared the wits out of me too. Our only really scary camping experience was torrential rain in Burkino Faso.
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I might add, from memory, I was the only person in the whole bus tour group who didn’t have something stolen from their tent in the whole 9 weeks. Leaving tents closed with only a rope (in a camping ground) isn’t much protection from thieves.
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You did very well. We’ve had good luck camping. Nothing ever stolen. That said, our valuables were never left in the tent unless we were in the tent. Otherwise we left our belongings in the truck.
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There is always something interesting happening when you guys are around, Peggy. So interesting to see how different it looks during two different seasons.
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So glad I could show both versions.
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Nice photos from both years. No giraffes?
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No giraffes in Ghana. We saw some further north in Senegal in a wildlife reserve, but they had been brought up from the south.
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Nice post, Peggy!
The first antelope is indeed a Kob, more specifically the West-African subspecies Buffon’s Kob.
The small antelope with the dots and stripes is a Bushbuck, the one next to it is also a Kob.
The monkey with young is a Patas Monkey.
Cheers, Thijs
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Thanks so much Thijs. I’ll update the captions.
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The places you have been and things you have seen are amazing.
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Thanks. We’ve been very blessed.
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wonderful LP. enlightening. as usual. continue…
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Thanks, as usual! 🙂
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This is absolutely amazing!!! Thank you so much for sharing this!
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You are most welcome.
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Such an adventure! I’m pretty sure I would NOT camp, though. 🙂
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Trust me, it’s really not dangerous.
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Those baboons are awfully feisty, though, aren’t they?
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Baboons are most unpleasant, but won’t bother you if you don’t have any food or what they think might be tasty toiletries.
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It was really great to share in these photos and your commentary. How sad that economically vulnerable nations are at the mercy of the first world nations even in the protection of their environment.
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Protecting wildlife is such a huge challenge in all countries. I get cross thinking about all the damage cats do to our wildlife in Australia.
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Oh indeed, we have been so mindless on this.
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Thanks for all the wildlife pics.
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You are most welcome.
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I thought I’d left a comment but my technical skills being what they are, doesn’t surprise me that it got lost in the ethernet. Love this wonderful photo essay. So many incredible animals. Love the baboon mama with her baby slung under her belly, keeping the little tyke close and out of trouble. I hope they are still here in 1000 years. An interesting contrast between 2009 and today. The 3 young ambassadors are lovely. What do you eat most days?
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Because we are camping and shopping in the local markets, we eat what’s available and in season. The constants are eggs, tomatoes and onions, with some type of protein. We make a lot of stir-fries and casserole type dishes.
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These are a lot of interesting animals. I often wonder how people lived in such wilds. I would have been eaten by a lion or tiger or chased by a giant ape.😫
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Yep, I’d have been lunch.
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LOL!!
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How lovely to experience the two different seasons… The wildlife is so spectacular what a special trip.. 😀 X
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We’ve been so lucky with all of our travels.
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with far too few exceptions i like animals more than people. sad but true. continue…
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I know what you mean.
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SO nice just to see them all smiling and happy. What a lovely place to be.
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It was a great place to visit.
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A wow of an adventure!
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It sure was.
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Oh this is just funny to read after having seen the new “The Lion King.” All the animals here are the exact same as the movie haha.
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Oh that is funny. Now I need to see the movie.
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If you can, bring some tissues. While it’s packed with hilarious scenes and cute voice actors, it really makes you ponder the meaning of life and is a serious eye-opener.
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Thanks for the advice.
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beautiful animals. i wonder if i will ever get the chance to come and see your fascinating place.
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I hope you do get the chance.
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Amazing pictures. Can’t wait until I get to visit Ghana. Up till now, my wife and me have been unable to due to financial reasons, but considering she is from Ghana, I can’t wait until the day that God will bless us with a visit in Ghana.
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Oh my, I hope you both manage to get to Ghana soon. It’s a fascinating and diverse country.
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