Enjoying a classical dance performance in Kerala

Looking smug?
Our Indian adventures are never short on variety, and last night brought the chance to watch the Kathakali, a classic dance form that originated in Kerala (southern India) in the 17th century.
These dances are based on stories from epics such as Ramayana, Mahabharatha and Bhagavatha. Performers train for six to eight years, starting from the ages of 10 to 12. Kathakali is typically performed in temples during festivals, and normally runs from 9pm until the early morning.
We got the short, one-hour version.

Feeling upset
The first half hour was devoted to the first performer showing emotions through facial expressions and hands only. She/he? was accompanied by two musicians—a drummer and a percussionist. It was fascinating to see her/him effortlessly move from surprise to anger to flirting to disdain and more. We could have watched all night.
The next half hour was devoted to a brief version of the story of Jayantha, son of Lord Indra, and Nakrathundi, maid servant to the powerful demon king, Nakarasura. The demon king has ordered Nakrathundi to go to heaven and steal heavenly bodies.

Jayantha reveals his sword—with musicians

Lalitha approaches Jayantha
Once she reaches heaven, Kafrathundi catches sight of Jayantha and falls immediately in lust. She disguises herself as Lalitha, a beautiful maiden, and approaches him with suggestive dance moves.
Lalitha (the first performer) offers herself to Jayantha, who declines, saying he needs his father’s approval. Lalitha doesn’t want to take no for an answer and makes a move on him, which enrages Jayantha, who orders her to leave.
At this point, Lalitha reveals her true identity (fangs and all) and Jayantha flies into a rage and chops off her breasts. nose and ears.
This part of the performance was also accompanied by musicians, and the percussionist sang the entire story (we think) in the local language of Malayalam.

Jayantha tells Lalitha to go

Jayantha
Are you exhausted? We were! 🙂
But seriously, the performers were so talented and so energetic, even though they didn’t dance all over the floor. Most of the movement was facial or almost in place.
And of course, the costumes and makeup were fabulous. The female in her elaborate jewellery and ornate red, white and gold dress and headdress. It was fitting that the royal Jayantha wore an elaborate crown as well as green face paint, making him seem less earthly.

Jayantha in a rage

Off with the boobs!
When the performance ended, the audience was invited on stage to have their pictures taken with the two stars. How could we refuse even if we were underdressed?
An martial arts performance was next, but we didn’t stay for that.
In case you are travelling in southern India, you can see one of these fantastic performances at the Thirumeny Cultural Centre in Munnar, Kerala. Apparently the martial arts show is equally impressive.
Oh, and Poor John’s comment after the performance rather tickled me. He thought it was nice that the dancers didn’t have to have ballerina physiques to make it big on the stage.

Curtain call?
experienced this recently. So much fun
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So glad you saw it too.
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oh and yes the martial arts perf is really cool too
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Thanks. I have to put it on my list for next time.
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Went to a performance in Kerala last year – and it was a highlight of the journey.
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Yes, definitely a highlight.
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Are you sure that isn’t the Grinch?
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Oh gosh Andrew, I think you’re right!
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Great experience!
Ciao
Sid
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It was amazing.
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Fascinating visit! I’ve been thinking of you and hoping your travels were going well. Such amazing adventures–love it!
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Thanks Jean. We are going well. The trip has flown by with only a couple of weeks left.
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Can’t wait to hear/read more about it upon your return!
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A least my connections will be better then. 🙂
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Looks like a fascinating slice of local colour. I saw something similar in China, but the cast was bigger. I think the female leads are played by men too. It would have been good to see you two done up in the same outfits, Peggy!
Best wishes, Pete.
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Thanks, Pete. Note to self—buy Kathakali costumes? Maybe not. 🙂
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Seeing local culture – one of the best reasons to travel to other countries. Fascinating theater, thanks for explaining the performance.
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We were lucky because there was a brief explanation posted in the foyer, so we were able to figure out what was going on before the dance started.
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Wonderful ! Love and hugs 🙂
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Thanks so much.
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“Jayantha flies into a rage and chops off her breasts. nose and ears.” AND AFTER THAT you and Poor John were brave enough to have your picture taken without protecting your “private parts”.
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Geez, we need you as a travelling companion to keep us out of future trouble. Are you available at short notice?
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Wonderful! I would have loved this. It immediately reminded me of sacred temple dancing we’d seen in Pushkar, and of an amazing festival in Delhi where they had the top performance groups from many different states, and of performances we’d seen in Bali. So rich and colourful.
Alison
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We lovd the colour too. Haven’t been to Pushkar but will keep temple dancing on my list. Thanks for the info.
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The temple dancing was during the Camel Fair (every november I think it is – huge and amazing!), but may also happen at other times of the year.
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I’m sure Mama Google will help me narrow it down. 🙂
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Very colourful, sounds like a very entertaining performance. Love the outfits.
dorothysstories.wordpress.com
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We loved the outfits too. They even looked good when we were close to them on stage. 🙂
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How did it compare with our own ‘Bushwhackers, Pride of Erin?’
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Good one Gerard. I reckon both could learn from one another.:)
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All I can say is ‘Wow, what a colourful show.’
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We thought so too.
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“Off with her boobs!” Shades of Alice in Wonderland. Enjoyed your post Peggy. And when I read 9 p.m. to the wee hours I was thinking far, far past my bed time. When I saw the hour presentation, I thought I could do that. 🙂 –Curt
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An hour was enough for us. I’m no longer up for all-nighters (they had those in Burma too), although I think the audience can sleep if it gets to be too much. Loved your reference to Alice! 🙂
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My tail no longer has the sense of humor to handle sitting for a long time either. 🙂
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My tail is fine, but my legs twitch.
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Wow super fan this experience, thank you so much for sharing
kisses
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My pleasure, voulaah. Kisses back to you.
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I agree with Poor John about the need for figures. Great comment.
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Curvy has always worked for me.
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Absolutely fascinating. I always dreamed of watching this sort of performance.
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Happy to share it with you here and hope you are able to see it in person one day.
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Hey, I am a native of Kerala and very pleased to know that you had a nice visit here. That comment on ‘dancers didn’t have to have ballerina physiques’ cracked me up. I have several friends who are trained in Classical dance and I know for a fact that even this physique is the result of conscious training. Kathakali artists are supposed to have flexible muscle movements and I have attended a workshop where the artist demonstrated how they shake their chest and belly muscles to go with the facial expressions. Strong abs are just not their thing, I suppose 😀
I have heard from a friend that female classical dancers wake up at 5.00 am and use butter in their eyes so that they can have larger, rounded, lotus-shaped eyes! Kathakali is just one of the Classical art forms in Kerala, albeit the hardest one to master!
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Thanks so much for the extra details about the Kathakali dancers. It is clearly a difficult dance to master. I would love to be able to attend a workshop on the movements or even the make-up.
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Next time you are in Kerala, ask your travel agents to arrange for one. There are lots of places you could visit to gain an insight into the intricacies of Kathakali. Even the makeup of Kathakali is a separate art in itself. I am volunteering for the work of a portal that aims to establish itself as the Wikipedia of folk arts in Kerala. It is an ambitious project that aims to cover about 150 of the local folk arts. When they are up and running, I will let you know
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Oh yes, please do let me know about the portal. I’ll be happy to add a link here. And thanks for the suggestion to arrange a viewing of the makeup process.
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Vocal,
Thanks for posting and adding additional commentary on the beautiful/colorful Kathakali dancers and story. Peggy’s many photos showing the various facial expressions, really helped without actually seeing the movements in person.
Sy S.
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I am glad that you appreciate them. Yes, Kathakali performances are a striking experience. The more you know about, the better you will like it. The quirk of an eyebrow, a smirk or a glance, the colour of the makeup used…every minute movements hold its own meaning.
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I certainly see what you are saying about every quirk of eyebrow, smirk and glance meaning something special. I took about 100 photos of the performance and each one is noticeably different. Such a remarkable production.
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Hi Peggy, I saw the Kathakali over thirty years ago, seems a million years ago. We watched the green faced Janatha guy dress and put his make up on. I remember he put eggplant seeds in his eyes to make them red. I remember the expressive faces but not the violent story! Great photos.
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Probably just as well you didn’t remember the chopping off the boons part. 🙂 But you were very lucky to see the costume and make-up going on.
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A wonderful and impressive show, Peggy. I’m glad you queried his/her? early on in your narrative because I was wondering that myself. The face of the first character could well be male. The whole performance looks so colourful and I’d dearly love to see it! The makeup and costumes are stunning -but I think Janaha went a bit far by chopping off the woman’s body bits! Lol. 🙂
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The performance was completely amazing and I should go back and add that both actors were male. I’m glad you were attracted to the make-up. Apparently it’s sometimes possible to view the make-up being applied before the show.
And I agree, chopping off bits is over the top, but then legends are usually extreme.
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